Sanmachi Suji old town

Sanmachi Suji is the old merchant quarter of Takayama: three parallel streets of low, dark-timbered houses with latticed fronts, narrow gutters of running water, and sake breweries marked by a ball of cedar branches hanging over the door. It is one of the best-preserved Edo-period townscapes in Japan.

The straight streets give long, graphic frames, and the warm wood suits kimono and soft light. Along the Miyagawa river nearby, a morning market sets up stalls of local produce and crafts.

The shops open mid-morning and the streets fill quickly; early morning is calm and evenly lit. People still live and work here, so keep doorways clear.