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à Ishigaki

Ishigaki is closer to Taiwan than to Tokyo, about three hours by direct flight from Haneda, and it photographs like nowhere else in Japan: white coral sand, water running from jade to deep blue, and green hills straight behind the beach. Kabira Bay on the north-west coast is the picture the island is known for — from the park above it, the islets and the glass-bottom boats sit on water that is brightest in high sun, and because swimming in the bay is not allowed, the shore stays quiet. Ten minutes away by ferry, Taketomi keeps a whole village of red-tiled roofs, coral-stone walls and white sand lanes. The north of the island is emptier, all the way out to the lighthouse at Hirakubozaki, and Iriomote-Ishigaki National Park was certified as Japan's first International Dark Sky Place. The rainy season comes in May and June and typhoons can arrive from July to October, so a spare day is worth more here than anywhere on the mainland.